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Truffle enforcer in the Provence

Source: www.washingtonpost.com. Posted on 15 December 2006.

Truffle inspector Rene Roudiere walks his beat armed with a razor-sharp penknife and clear plastic baggies.

In a warehouse, he plucks a lumpy black truffle from a tray and shaves off a moon-shaped slice. Too many white veins, not yet ripe. Next one: Caterpillars have burrowed deep into its insides, turning them spongy. Next: a perfect specimen, firm, charcoal black, with only a hint of white veining.

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